Painting Glossary

Foundation

Undercoat#
The primer coat that goes on bare plastic, resin or metal before any colour. It gives paint something to grip, and its tone sets the mood of everything above it — a white undercoat keeps colours bright, black keeps them deep and moody, grey sits between the two.
Basecoat#
The first coat of actual colour, taken to solid, even coverage. Thin it and build it in two or three passes rather than fighting it on in one — a thick basecoat drowns detail you will want back later.
Layer#
A coat applied over the basecoat that deliberately leaves the previous colour showing at the recesses and edges. Layers are how you climb from base tone towards your highlights without a hard join between them.
Contrast / Speedpaint#
A high-pigment, heavily thinned paint that shades and tints in a single coat, pooling in recesses and staying thin across raised areas. Best over a light undercoat, where it does most of the tonal work for you.

Shading

Shade#
Any darker tone laid into recesses and under overhangs to suggest where light does not reach. The umbrella term for the two below.
Soft Shade#
A gentle, diffuse darkening across a whole area rather than into specific recesses — used where you want the form to turn softly, as on skin or cloth.
Deep Shade#
A strong, targeted darkening pushed only into the deepest recesses and panel lines. Used sparingly, it does more for perceived depth than any amount of highlighting.
Wash#
A thin, free-flowing paint that runs off raised surfaces and gathers in recesses on its own. Fast and forgiving; the risk is tide marks where it dries unevenly, so keep the coat moving and do not flood it.

Highlighting

Highlight#
Any lighter tone placed where light would strike. The umbrella term for the stages below, which run from broadest to finest.
Chunky Highlight#
A broad, deliberately loose first highlight covering a wide area of the upper surfaces. It establishes the light direction; later, finer stages refine it.
Edge Highlight#
A fine line run along a raised edge with the side of the brush. Reads as light catching a hard corner, and does more than anything else to make armour plates look crisp.
Final Highlight#
The last and lightest pass, restricted to the few points that catch the most light. Keep it thin and mean — over-applied, it flattens everything underneath.
Spot Highlight#
A single dot of the brightest tone on a corner, rivet or gem to imply a point of reflected light. A handful per model is plenty.

Blending & texture

Glaze#
Paint thinned until it is almost transparent, laid over cured work to tint it or to soften the join between two tones. Builds slowly by design — several passes beat one heavy one.
Drybrush#
Nearly all the paint wiped from the brush, then dragged across raised detail so pigment catches only the high points. Ideal for texture — fur, rust, stone, rubble — and rough on your brushes, so keep old ones for it.
Stipple#
Paint dabbed on with the brush tip to leave a broken, mottled texture rather than a smooth coat. Good for weathering, corrosion, and transitions you want to look irregular.